ALL ABOUT AMSTERDAM

A Brief History and Facts: Amsterdam was originally founded as "Aemstelredamme", which meant "dam in the Amstel". The Amstel was, and still is the river that flows from the south and the "Drecht" and the "Kromme Mijdrecht" rivers and ends at the "IJ", the body of water right behind Central Station.

In the olden days, until the construction of the 32 Kilometer "Afsluitdijk" in 1927-'32, the IJ had an open connection with the North Sea. As a result, the Amstel estuary was flooded by salt water every six hours or so. Hence the decision of the early settlers to build a Dam to keep their fertile farmlands protected. "Waterdoors" constructed in the Dam would be opened at low tide to let the Amstelwater flow into the IJ, and closed at high tide, to keep the salt water out. As activity grew, and the settlement with it, the primitive dikes that were build in support with the Dam were fortified and turned into roads to transport the goods that the, by now developed, harbour generated. While visiting the city you’ll walk over the "Nieuwendijk", the "Haarlemmerdijk" and the "Zeedijk".

The river Amstel

All this activity and industriousness didn't go unnoticed in the rest of the Netherlands, of course, and so in 1275 the Amstelredamme dwellers were granted the right of transport of goods and merchandise throughout the Netherlands, free of toll. These "city rights" opened up the prospects for profit. Transport costs became considerably lower, and the base for developing the trade that has made

Amsterdam the city it is today, was laid.

The Muiderpoort, one of the
original gates into the city.

This also meant an increasing risk of invasion by unfriendly people. To protect the young city, an encompassing wall was erected, terminating at the banks of the IJ, thus leaving a defendable supply route in times of dire straits. The "Singel" Canal was dug around the wall in double defense. Around the 17^th century, as the city expanded, more horseshoe-shaped canals were hand dug around it, crossed by smaller canals, thus making it possible to refresh the canal water with fresh Amstelwater, as well as having a means to inexpensively transport goods all over the place. "Herengracht","Keizersgracht" and "Prinsengracht" are the result of this expansion, and a thick wall around the now called "Stadhouderskade"was built to become the new line of defence. To house the labourers, a whole new housing area was put up on the side of the city. It's name is probably a derivate from the French word for "garden",and we still know it as the "Jordaan" today.

The Amsterdam canals were constructed in three phases.
The digging of the Singel commenced in 1593, the construction of the western canal ring started in 1614, and the southern part of the canals was built from 1663.

When Napoleon got here, the city hall on the Dam was hastily evacuated in order to offer him a bit of a palace to live in. That's how we got a Royal Palace. After Napolean lost at Waterloo, our Prince of Orange came back, was crowned in the Royal palace and declared Amsterdam capital of Holland.

When the French left in 1813, the economy of Amsterdam was in a deplorable state. Decades later, in the second half of the 19th century, the city experienced an economic upswing due to the Industrial Revolution. After 1900, the city continued to grow in population as well as in area.

Amsterdam was occupied by German troops in May 1940. Of the almost 80,000 Jews that lived in Amsterdam and called the city “Mokum”, 66,000 were killed. The Allies liberated the country’s south in 1944, but the isolated city of Amsterdam suffered horribly in the severe winter of 1944-45, and thousands more residents died. The city was finally liberated in May 1945 by Canadian troops. Although the harbor and the industrial district of Amsterdam were destroyed during the war, most of the city itself remained undamaged.

Since the 1950s Amsterdam has grown vastly. Postwar Amsterdam gathered itself quietly until the early 1960s when people began to question the status quo and Amsterdam became the radical heart of Europe. In the late 1960s, prosperity began to increase at an unprecedented rate. Groups of immigrants began to arrive and as a result the city acquired the cosmopolitan character it has today.

Amsterdam's IJ harbor

The Three Crosses: These are the crosses of the Amsterdam coat of arms. They have been symbolically associated with the city for most of the past millennium. They derive from the cross upon which an apostle by the name of Andrew was crucified. Why there are three is again unclear, but since 1947 when meaning was officially decreed by Queen Wilhelmina, they have represented three moral virtues: Compassion, Resolution, and Heroism. Each cross might also represent and protect Amsterdam from three disasters that the city has endured for centuries. Floods, the plague, and fires (especially in the 1500's).

Economy: Manufacturing, shipping, tourism (YOU!)

Language Description: Dutch. English is widely spoken -- it's taught in the schools.

Passport/Visa U.S.: A passport, but not a visa, is required for citizens of Canada and the U.S. Passports must be valid for three months following your return. All travelers should have proof of onward passage. Reconfirm travel document requirements with your carrier before departing.

Population: 718,151

Religion: Christian (Roman Catholic, Dutch Reformed) and Jewish, though many other religions are represented.

Telephones: Most local numbers have seven digits, and the local area code for Amsterdam is 020. There's no need to dial the area code when calling within Amsterdam, but if you're trying to reach a number outside the city, you must dial that city's area code.

Some business numbers begin with 0800, which indicates that they are toll free. Information numbers begin with 0900 and are subject to a per-minute fee. For directory assistance within the Netherlands, dial 0900-8008. For international directory assistance, dial 0900-8418.

When dialing from abroad, prefix any number you find in this site with +31 (for Holland) and 20 (for Amsterdam). For example, you've found a hotel in the sleep section and the number listed is 123 45 67, from abroad dial + 31 20 1234567. All public telephones in the Netherlands use calling cards, widely available at post offices and tobacco shops. As an alternative you could go to a 'calling center' which offer competitive rates for overseas calling.

Time Zone: 1 hour ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+1 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is observed from the end of March to the end of October. It stays light until 10 or 10:30 pm in the Summer. At 7 pm in Amsterdam, the time in New York is 12 noon.

Money: The currency used in the Netherlands is the Euro expressed as EUR or €. There are 11 other countries apart from the Netherlands that form the Euro Zone: Austria, Belgium, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Ireland, Italy, Luxemburg, Portugal, Spain. You can use the Euro in all these countries. (To remember the list of countries use the phrase "Baffling pigs").

Euros are divided into 100 cents. There are coins of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, and 1 and 2 euros. There are notes of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros (note the pattern 1, 2, 5). The Dutch Guilder is no longer usable. You have to exchange old coins and notes in a bank.

Credit cards are not as widely accepted in the Netherlands as in many other lands, but it's getting steadily better. Always enquire first if you intend to pay by credit card.

An ATM card will most likely work in the Netherlands and throughout Europe, so you don't need to take traveller's cheques. In fact, money machines give the best rate for the US dollar and are most convenient. Check with your bank before leaving to make sure your network is used there. ATMs are abundant in Amsterdam, and they accept most major foreign bank and credit cards. If you need to exchange foreign currency or traveler's checks, you can do so at banks, but few give cash advances against credit cards. There are many places to change money in town. Post offices usually give the best rates. The GWK at Central station is also good. Compare rates carefully at the exchange offices in town. Hotels are usually an expensive way to change money. Banks can be slow. There's an American Express on the Damrak, and a Thomas Cook on the Dam. The current exchange rates are online at many sites. Just search for “exchange rates” at any search engine like Yahoo.com. Banks and Bureaux de Change offer similar rates of exchange, but banks tend to charge lower commissions. Some of the exchange bureaus have bad reputations -- their honesty is suspect (signs outside such offices often list the selling instead of buying rates), and they charge commissions of up to 9%. Most banks are open Monday-Friday 9 am-5 pm, though a few don't open until the afternoon on Monday. Some banks are also open Saturday mornings.

Like in all big cities the world round, there are cheats looking for an easy target. A typical trick in less reputable establishments is, if you pay with a note, to give you change as if you tendered a note of one denomination smaller (for instance to give you change for 50 euros if you give them a 100 euro note) and then pretend it was a mistake if you notice. The best way to avoid this happening is to speak the value of the note as you hand it over ("100 euros"), so they can't claim not to have noticed.

Tipping: All prices in the Netherlands by law include tax and tips: the price you see is the price you pay. Normal Dutch practice in restaurants was for the customer to round up to the nearest guilder for small amounts, and the nearest 5 for larger amounts; we'll have to see how this pracice changes for the Euro (the Euro is worth about 2.20 guilders). Don't feel obliged to leave a tip: it is not expected. If the bill says "service not included" they are just trying to rip you off. You don't need to tip in taxis either.

Voltage Requirements: Dutch Electricity was 220 volts, and then moved at a rate of 1 volt per year to the European standard 230 volts. There is a special plug adapter you can buy at the airport, newsstands in town or at Aurora, on the Vijzelstraat at the end of the Flower Market, near the Munt Tower.

Clothing: There are no restrictions on dress, although the Dutch are fairly conservative dressers themselves. Normally men wear suits and ties for business meetings (women wear equivalent business apparel), but good-looking, casual attire works fine in most other situations. Men should pack a coat and tie and women a nice skirt or dress to wear to upscale restaurants. A sweater comes in handy at night, even in summer, and a waterproof jacket will be. Pack a small folding umbrella, too. It rains often there, but not usually in August.

Daycare and Childcare in Amsterdam: Some hotels offer babysitting and daycare. Ask when making reservations.

Climate: Amsterdam's climate is mild but changeable year-round. January and February are the chilliest months, with temperatures usually between 30 F/-1 C and 40 F/4 C. Though often windy, it's rare for Amsterdam to get any snow or for the canals to freeze over. June-August is warm but rarely hot: Temperatures don't often get much above 80 F/27 C and can get as cool as 50 F/10 C.

The Netherlands is a damp country. The running joke is that it only rains two days a year -- the rest of the time it pours. Rain can arrive unexpectedly on what starts out to be a sunny day. Therefore, a raincoat and umbrella are often necessary. In summer, the humidity can become oppressive.

Geography: Over 50 percent of the country is below sea level and over 20% of its land has been reclaimed from the sea! Hence the name, Netherlands. Over the centuries, the Dutch have sectioned off land with dikes and have used windmills with a so-called Archimedes Screw to pump water out of low lying areas, creating farmland where before there was none at all.

General Health Information: Health care in The Netherlands is provided to everyone by private doctors and voluntary-nonprofit hospitals, and financed through a health insurance system which is administered by insurance companies known as sickness funds and also by private insurers. The quality of health care is comparable to that in the United States. Some specialties and high technology services are not as widespread as in the United States, and patients needing these services may have to be referred to hospitals in one of the larger cities. Distances in The Netherlands are, however, short.

Americans, and others from countries outside of the European Union, can access the Dutch system without difficulty. For routine, non-emergency care access must be on a private paying basis. Americans should contact General Practitioners (GPs) and specialists directly and then pay the fee charged which in 1999 will come to about $20 for a GP consultation and most likely under $50 for a specialist. Access to specialists without a GP's referral can, however, sometimes be difficult since the prevailing practice in the country, required by both sickness funds and private insurers, requires GP referral for specialist consultations. For emergency care Americans should go to the nearest hospital providing that the hospital has a medically staffed emergency room. For such care they will receive a bill. Not all hospitals have emergency departments though they are most common in the larger cities. If one cannot get to the hospital or to a doctor in an emergency situation one should dial 112 on the telephone. This is a national emergency number like 911 in the United States. Alternatively there are doctors, ambulances and dentists on call. One needs to check in each city what the central on-call telephone number is. The number is usually found in city tourist guides, though hotel desks and local residents can also be helpful in identifying the number. In contacting doctors and hospitals, language should be no problem since nearly all speak English.

Good medical facilities are widely available. The Department of State strongly urges Americans to consult with their medical insurance company prior to traveling abroad to confirm whether their policy applies overseas and whether it will cover emergency expenses such as a medical evacuation. U.S. medical insurance plans seldom cover health costs incurred outside the United States unless supplemental coverage is purchased. Further, U.S. Medicare and Medicaid programs do not provide payment for medical services outside the United States. However, many travel agents and private companies offer insurance plans that will cover health care expenses incurred overseas including emergency services such as medical evacuations.

When making a decision regarding health insurance, Americans should consider that many foreign doctors and hospitals require payment in cash prior to providing service and that a medical evacuation to the United States may cost well in excess of $50,000. Uninsured travelers who require medical care overseas often face extreme difficulties, whereas travelers who have purchased overseas medical insurance have found it to be life-saving when a medical emergency occurs. When consulting with your insurer prior to your trip, please ascertain whether payment will be made to the overseas healthcare provider or if you will be reimbursed later for expenses that you incur. Some insurance policies also include coverage for psychiatric treatment and for disposition of remains in the event of death.

Pharmacies: In the Netherlands what is known as a pharmacy in the United States is referred to as 'apotheek.' Pharmacies are also recognizable by the green flashing cross or the caduceus (intertwined snakes) displayed outside or within the store window.

In general, the pharmacies in the Netherlands are reliable. That is, they dispense the proper medications and the drugs themselves are of a U.S./Western level of quality. The pharmacists themselves are trained professionals with degrees in their field and all are members of the National Pharmacy Association. Pharmacies in the Netherlands are used mainly for prescription medications. A Drugstore will carry over-the-counter medications and other products. All pharmacies are individually owned in the Netherlands, and are reliable. Many pharmacies will have English speaking staff, particularly those in tourist areas.

Similar to the United States, pharmacists cannot distribute prescription medications without authorization from a doctor. It should be noted that only prescription drugs can be found in a pharmacy, while over-the-counter and anything else is found in a drug store.

A listing of local pharmacies open outside of regular business hours can be found by looking on the pharmacy door. The nearest open pharmacy will be listed. The Central Medical Service will have names and hours of pharmacies (1 Fl./minute) 0900.3503.2042. (Destination-specific phone numbers may be found with the emergency phone numbers section of the CityHealth Profile) You may also try calling 212.1568 for a listing of the emergency pharmacies for the day.

Regardless of the pharmacy situation in any country, it is always advisable to bring enough medication to last through your trip. Be sure to carry it with you rather than trusting it to checked luggage (many frequent travelers bring a double supply of medication and pack each in different bags). It is also advisable to carry extra prescription sheets written by your doctor (with the generic names) in case you need refills during your trip and to show at customs as proof of the medication's identity and necessity.

Source: U.S. Department of State Consular Information Sheet for the Netherlands

Transport: Nobody’s ever held a big lacrosse tournament in Amsterdam before. It’s not a rental car kinda place. We recommend the trams for travel to and from games. Dress normally and change at the fields. There are great locker rooms for tournament use. Most of the social activities, museums, restaurants and clubs are downtown and the tournament is about 6 miles south in the first suburb that has athletic facitities, Amstelveen. Amsterdam has superb public transportation. There are many trams and they take about fifteen minutes from a stop about 1/8 of a mile from the fields.

There is a national public transport information service: you say when and where you want to go, anywhere in the Netherlands, and they tell you how to get there. The telephone number is 0900-9292; it costs €0.50 per minute, though in our experience the quality of the service is variable, especially considering how much you end up paying for it.

Planes: PLAN YOUR FLIGHT EARLY! The cost of a flight from the US to Holland a month before August is about $700.00. You can book them early for about 300 or less.

Trams: The best way to travel is by tram. They are frequent, fast and dependable. You can buy a ticket from the driver, the conductor at the back of the tram, or a machine in the middle of the tram, depending on the sort of tram it is. However, it is considerably cheaper if you buy a 'strippenkaart' from a tobacconist, post office or railway station beforehand, for €5.90 for 15 strips. On most trams you stamp these yourself in the yellow machines in the tram: each journey uses one strip plus a strip for every zone you travel in. If you stay within the centre of town, that is one zone, so you leave one strip blank and stamp the second. If you travel over a zone border, you are travelling in two zones, so you leave two strips blank, and stamp the third.

On some trams there is a conductor: you get on at the back of the tram and the conductor stamps your ticket for you. Once stamped, a ticket is valid for an hour, regardless of how often you change tram or bus. Several people can travel on one strippenkaart: you just stamp it for the first person, and then for the second, and so on. There are also day and week passes available. Day and week passes and strippencards are valid on all trams, buses and metros, and also on trains within the city boundaries (thus not to Schiphol airport: then you have to buy a train ticket). You must stamp a day or week pass the first time you use it only.

The Tram map is in a bigger format at the end of this package

You should hail a tram to indicate you want to get on. Press the button near the door to open it. If the tram has a conductor you must use the rear door to get on. You have to press one of the red STOP buttons inside the tram to indicate that you want to get off at the next stop (although there is rarely a stop where no one wants to get out). Again press the button near the door to open it when the tram has stopped.

There is a free map of all tram and bus routes in Amsterdam available from tourist offices or the GVB office in front of Central Station on your way into town. You can also buy a weekly tram pass there. There is a special tram, number 20, which runs from Central Station on a circular route that runs past many tourist attractions. The trams run until just after midnight (the last trams leave Central Station at 12.15). After that there is an hourly service of night buses from Central Station.

Bicycles: Amsterdam is the best city in Europe for a bicycle. There are so many bicyclists that they comprise the majority of people moving around. The next largest group is people walking. These people could be locals, in which case they will be looking out for bicycles. The problem with biking in Amsterdam is the tourists who walk across the bike lanes without looking for bicycles.

Where most of us live, there are sidewalks and roads. Mostly, bikes ride on the right edge of the road, perhaps in a specially painted bike lane. If there were any separate bike lanes, the would be on a path going through a wooded area, or college campus. In most cases this separate bike lanes would be shared by walkers, joggers, rollerbladers, bikes and skateboarders. In Amsterdam bikes get a special lanes all to themselves. If you are on foot and walking in this lane you should always get out of the way of any bicycle coming towards you. There are 3 "lanes of traffic": the sidewalk, the road, and the special bike lane in between which is separated from the sidewalk and road by 2-3" cobblestone medians.

When cycling, cross tram lines at a good angle to avoid getting your wheel caught in the rail. For obvious reasons, lock your bike to something solid when leaving it unattended, and lock the frame, not just the front wheel (otherwise they unbolt your front wheel, take your frame and someone else's front wheel, and have a complete bike).

There are several addresses around town where you can hire (rent) a bike, for very reasonable prices. Traditionally, Dutch bikes have no hand-brakes, but back-pedal brakes. If you think you can't handle this, ask the hirer for a bike with hand-brakes.

When hiring a bike, you will be required to pay a deposit, and you should take some form of identification. Addresses:

Bike City, Bloemgracht 68 (Westerkerk), 6263721
Damstraat Rent a Bike, P Jacobszoondwarsstraat 11 (Dam), 6255029.
Macbike, Marnixstraat 220, 6266964. and Mr. Visserplein 2 (Waterlooplein), 6200985

Crime is low in Amsterdam, but they have a tradition of bicycle theft. NEVER LEAVE YOUR BIKE UNLOCKED IN AMSTERDAM. ALWAYS CARRY A LOCK, OR TWO, AND USE THEM!

Taxis: Taxis are normally not hailed in the Netherlands, but taken from a taxi rank, of which there are many (there is an environmental advantage to this: taxis aren't constantly driving round looking for custom). You can order a taxi by phoning 6777 777, or 0900-0724. A taxi will arrive almost immediately (though be prepared to wait if it is raining on a Friday or Saturday evening). Taxis are good quality but relatively expensive; around €1.50 per km regardless of day or time. You don't need to tip more than rounding up: they are already expensive enough.

Car or Van hire: Driving in Amsterdam is not recommended. Even for longer distances it is far better to take a train. If you do need to hire a car, look in the Gouden Gids or Yellow Pages for addresses of the normal car hire firms ('Autoverhuur'). This website (http://www.channels.nl/amsterdam/all_autoverhuur.html or http://www.nl-menu.nl/nlmenu.en/sections/315/1122/382.html ) has some car rental locations that may rent a team a van if really needed. Ask the hotel if they have parking. Most don’t and street parking is almost non-existent.

Walking: While you cannot walk from the city center to the fields, Central Amsterdam is very small. Most distances are walkable, and walking is pleasurable, giving the best chance to appreciate the Amsterdam architecture and surroundings. Beware of walking on bike paths, which are distinguished by their reddish colour: cyclists will show no mercy. Also take care when crossing roads, even at a green pedestrian light. Cyclists consider themselves pedestrians in Amsterdam, and so tend to ignore traffic lights. There are typically three lanes: Bike, Car and Tram. Be careful the first day. You’ll get used to it after a few close calls with bikes. Note that in true European style, streets may change name along their length.

Amsterdam is, as you may have noticed, structured as a half wheel. In the middle you have the old centre bounded by the canal called the Singel. It contains the Red-Light district around the Oude Kerk, the Nes theatre street, a quaint maze of small streets and quiet canals, and the Royal Palace at the Dam, with pedestrian shopping streets going north and south.

Surrounding the old centre, you have the three concentric ring canals Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht (it can help to note that they're in alphabetic order). All four canals (with the Singel) are nice to walk along. The Herengracht is the grandest, especially along the 'Golden Crescent' to the east of the Leidsestraat, the Prinsengracht is perhaps the friendliest with its houseboats. The streets that connect the ring canals, especially in the section between the Brouwersgracht and the Leidsestraat shouldn't be missed for their lovely individual shops.

To the west of the ring canals, in the area on the map where the streets all run at an angle to the canals, is the Jordaan, a lovely area to walk, with quiet canals, and tiny streets, and many unusual shops. You'll find a lot of the better restaurants and more interesting bars there too.

To and from the Airport: Schiphol airport is very close to Amsterdam centre (about 14 miles) and even closer to the tournament (about 8 miles). There are trains day and night, seven times an hour through the day, hourly in the dead of night, and which take about 15 minutes. A single journey costs €2.90. Or you can pay €30 for a taxi, and be there in 10 minutes. The choice is yours.

By the way, Schiphol has been voted the best airport in the world several times, and not without reason: the shops there are great, and of a wide range, from drink and chocolates to fashions and electronics. You might want to leave yourself some extra time for shopping. If you want to know what to take back for people, Dutch chocolate and cheese are very good. There are also nice stoneware bottles of Dutch gin (called Jenever) in two types Jong (young) and Oud (old). The Dutch also invented Brandy (Brandewijn means 'burnt wine') which they call "Vieux" (Yes, the Dutch call it by a French name and the French call it by a Dutch name).

Neighborhoods: If you read these before booking your hotel, you won’t be surprised by the area you stay in. Amsterdam has something for everyone and these are the best areas to stay whatever your tastes.

Jordaan: A onetime working class and immigrant area that has been gradually gentrified into a trendy quarter of boutiques and cafes. Located northwest of Dam Square and 10 minutes from Leidseplein, Jordaan is a labyrinth of twisting alleys and streets, confounding to map-makers and pleasing to bohemians and culture vultures. It's quieter than the city center and a nice place to stroll. Some locals complain about the shiny new sheen on the classic old buildings and disdain the pricing-out of the original inhabitants, both of which are valid concerns. Still, the double-edged sword of urban revitalization has carved out a tourist-friendly neighborhood whose canals and narrow streets make it one of the most picturesque in Europe. Many of the houses are topped by gable stones, which before the advent of numbered addresses were carved or painted with pictures representing the occupations of their inhabitants. Between a number of the buildings are hofjes, small private gardens that, in spring, delight the eye and nose. (Most of the gardens, alas, are hidden from the street and are accessible only by doors on the sidewalk. These are generally locked, but some residents keep theirs open to considerate visitors.)

Oud Zuid: The Old South district of Amsterdam is one of the cultural centers of the city, mainly because it contains the wonderful Rijksmuseum, the Van Gogh museum and some important concert venues. Cutting through the area is Singelgracht, a canal lined by a number of nice hotels and a casino. Just off the canal is popular Leidseplein, which is the center of an area chock full of cafes, theaters, nightclubs, restaurants, bars and "Smoking cafes," where marijuana and hashish are sold and smoked. In the more westerly part of the neighborhood is Vondelpark, the city's largest green area. It is much larger than New York’s Central Park.

City Center: For better or worse, the place that has become nearly synonymous with Amsterdam. It's also the oldest part of the city and is known as Walletjes because the old city walls were located there. The center of this crowded, colorful neighborhood draws tourists by the thousands with its proliferation of sex shops, prostitutes and coffee shops along narrow streets and canals. Prostitutes pose in neon-lit windows, exhibiting their wares, as would-be customers, backpackers, strolling couples and travelers of all ages gape. The experience is nothing short of surreal. If you're visiting the Walletjes out of simple curiosity, you'll probably feel more comfortable going during the day. For a true experience go at night is when the real crowds show up. It is very safe, though it doesn’t always feel that way. There are also plenty of eateries and bars to nourish the tired spectator. Try the FEBO automat for late night munchies. To reach the Red-Light District, head east from Dam Square. Taking pictures is taboo, and ignore (literally) any street drug dealers. If you go in the late evening or very early morning, avoid deserted streets.

Basic Attractions: The broad plaza outside Centraal Station is a good place to begin a tour -- you're likely to end up there anyway at some point during your stay. A walk down Damrak will take you to Dam Square, site of the Royal Palace and National Monument. If you turn toward the National Monument and continue walking, you'll end up in the colorful Red-Light District. This is the oldest part of the city and a neighborhood where quaintness mingles with sex. You could make your way north to the Oude Kerk, the city's oldest church, or continue walking to the southeast and see the Rembrandthuis, the Portuguese Israeli Synagogue and the Jewish Historical Museum.

If you turn toward the Royal Palace at Dam Square and continue walking, you'll be headed in the general direction of the Anne Frank House on Prinsengracht. Also nearby is the Westerkerk, where Rembrandt is buried. Jordaan, one of the most picturesque districts of Amsterdam, is just beyond Prinsengracht. Other areas worth exploring are around Leidseplein and Muntplein, near the Flower Market.

Museum-wise, Amsterdam offers a wide range of institutions documenting everything from the city's highest cultural achievements to its seediest underpinnings. The must-see museum is the Rijksmuseum, which contains many famous Old Master paintings, including The Night Watch by Rembrandt. Nearby are two other excellent art museums: the Van Gogh Museum and the Stedelijk Museum. At the other end of the spectrum are bizarre museums dedicated to sex and drugs, if not rock 'n' roll.

For folks planning to take in many of the local sights and institutions, the Amsterdam Culture and Leisure Pass has dozens of coupons entitling you to free entry or large discounts at many tourist attractions. The pass is available from any branch of the Amsterdam Tourist Office (VVV).

Landmarks:

Dam Square Site of the National Monument honoring the dead of World War II, the Royal Palace, Nieuwe Kerk, the New Church, where Queen Beatrix was crowned, hosts temporary exhibits and organ concerts, and the NH Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky. A lively meeting place for tourists, shoppers, businesspeople, street performers, artists and children feeding pigeons. At the south end of Damrak at the center of the city.

Heineken Experience Though Heineken has stopped production at this former brewery, you can still take a tour of the old factory and learn how beer is made. After the tour, you'll get to sample some free beer and snacks. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 7.50 euros adults. Stadhouderskade 78, Amsterdam. Phone 523-9666.

Koninklijk Paleis The 17th-century Royal Palace on Dam Square was originally Amsterdam's city hall and became a royal palace by order of Louis Napoleon in 1808. The many impressive rooms now shelter Empire-style furniture and valuable paintings by followers of Rembrandt. October-May, Tuesday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 12:30 pm-5 pm; June-September, daily 11 am-5 pm. 3 euros adults. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147, Amsterdam. Phone 624-8698.

Oude Kerk Dating back to the 14th century, this gothic structure located in the heart of the Red-Light District is Amsterdam's oldest church. The oak-encased Great Organ, gilded ceiling, stained-glass windows and the Lady Chapel have largely been preserved and are all worth a look. Rembrandt's first wife is buried there. Monday-Saturday 11 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. 3.80 euros adults. Oudekerksplein 23, Amsterdam. Phone 625-8284.

Dam Square

Portuguese Synagogue Built by Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition in the 1600s and inspired by the architecture of the Temple of Solomon in Jerusalem, this synagogue is still in active use and is illuminated by more than 1,000 candles and 72 windows. Open Sunday-Friday 10 am-12:30 pm and 1-4 pm. On Saturdays, a religious service is conducted at 8:45 am. 3.50 euros adults. Mr. Visserplein 3, Amsterdam. Phone 624-5351.

Westerkerk Boasts the tallest and most beautiful tower in Amsterdam -- with spectacular views of the city -- and contains the largest nave of any Dutch Protestant church. The burial place of Rembrandt. April-September, Monday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Admission is free, but visitors must pay 3 euros to climb the tower. Prinsengracht 281, Amsterdam. Phone 689-2565. http://www.westerkerk.nl.

Museums: This town is loaded with great exhibits!

Amsterdams Historisch Museum Housed in a former orphanage, this museum painstakingly and artistically re-creates the life of the city from 1275 to World War II and beyond, with many special exhibits linking past and present. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-5 pm. 6 euros adults. Kalverstraat 92 (with a second entrance at Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 357), Amsterdam. Phone 523-1822. http://www.ahm.nl.

Rembrandt’s Dutch Masters

Anne Frank Huis A stirring memorial to the famed, doomed diarist who hid with her family from the Nazis in this tiny annex 1942-1944. The small house and the exhibition space next door display sections of Frank's diary along with historical photographs and exhibits about racism and anti-Semitism. There's also a bookstore and cafe. April-August, daily 9 am-9 pm, the rest of the year 9 am-7 pm. 6.50 euros adults. Prinsengracht 263, Amsterdam. Phone 556-7100. http://www.annefrank.nl.

Cobra Museum voor Moderne Kunst Displays works by an international group of experimental artists who were part of the postwar revolutionary movement based in Copenhagen, Brussels and Amsterdam. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm. 5 euros adults. Sandbergplein 1-3, Amstelveen. Phone 547-5050. http://www.cobra-museum.nl.

Erotic Museum Did you think you could visit Amsterdam and not find a repository of all things sex related? Housed in a wonderful 18th-century building in the Red-Light District, this saucy space exhibits erotic art and devices from different cultures and historical periods. Visitors under age 18 must be accompanied by an adult guardian. Sunday-Thursday 11 am-1 am, Friday and Saturday until 2 am. 5 euros for adults. Oudezijds Achterburgwal 54 (Red-Light District), Amsterdam. Phone 624-7303. http://www.janot.com.

Hash-Marijuana-Hemp Museum The display distinguishes between various types of plants and history, culture and cultivation of them. Daily 11 am-10 pm. 6 euros adults. Oudezijds Achterburgwal 148 (Red-Light District), Amsterdam. Phone 623-5961.

Joods Historisch Museum The Jewish Historical Museum is located in the old Jewish Quarter in a complex of restored synagogues and modern buildings. Inside are revered artifacts and chronicles of Jewish culture, religion and history in the Netherlands. Daily 11 am-5 pm. 5 euros adults. Jonas Daniel Meyerplein 2-4, Amsterdam. Phone 625-4229. http://www.jhm.nl.

KIT Tropenmuseum This museum of the tropics is an ethnographic treasure-house, illuminating the daily lives of peoples in Africa, Asia, the Middle East and Latin America. There's also a special children's section called Kindermuseum. Daily 10 am-5 pm. 6.80 euros adults, 3.40 euros children ages 6-17. Linnaeusstraat 2, Amsterdam. Phone 568-8215. http://www.kit.nl.

Katten Kabinet This collection of paintings, sculpture and artifacts depicting cats is housed in a beautiful 17th-century canal house. There are pieces by Rembrandt and Picasso as well as a few real cats living on the premises. A fun stop for cat lovers, but anyone else will be bored. Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 1-5 pm. About 4 euros. Herengracht 497, Amsterdam. Phone 626-5378. http://www.kattenkabinet.nl.

NEMO Science and Technology Center A hands-on science center with interactive exhibits about technology, industry, energy and other subjects. A roof terrace and self-service restaurant -- open until 11 pm -- can be reached from the street by a pedestrian ramp, affording one of the best views of the city. Museum open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 9 euros adults, free for children younger than age 5. Oosterdok 2 (a short walk from Centraal Station), Amsterdam. Phone 0900-919-1100 (a toll call). http://www.e-nemo.nl.

Nederlands Scheepvaart Museum A major maritime museum housed in what was once one of the grand headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Company. It includes a full-scale replica of an 18th-century ship. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. 7 euros adults. Kattenburgerplein 1, Amsterdam. Phone 523-2222. http://www.scheepvaartmuseum.nl.

Reflex Miniature Museum Known as the "smallest museum in the world." It contains exhibits of work from the experimental movement Cobra and other modern art. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Free admission. Meibergdreef 9 (inside the Amsterdam Medical Center), Amsterdam. Phone 627-2832.

Rembrandthuis This three-story house, where the artist lived 1639-1660, is now a museum. It provides insight into his life, and it holds an important collection of his etchings and drawings and a fascinating series of self-portraits. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 1-5 pm. 6 euros adults. Jodenbreestraat 4, Amsterdam. Phone 520-0400. http://www.rembrandthuis.nl.

Rijksmuseum This vast complex houses many of the greatest Dutch masterpieces, including works by Vermeer, Jan Steen, Frans Hals and especially Rembrandt, whose The Night Watch is displayed with deserved reverence. (An exhibit next to the hall where The Night Watch hangs explains the history of that painting in photographs and diagrams.) The collection, which includes paintings and artifacts from other European and Asian nations, is immense -- you'll likely need several days to see it all. Daily 10 am-5 pm. 8.50 euros adults. Stadhouderskade 42, Amsterdam. Phone 674-7047. http://www.rijksmuseum.nl.

Stedelijk Museum A wide-ranging collection of modern Dutch paintings and the city's most important venue for contemporary art exhibitions. In late 2002, the museum will close for renovations. In summer, daily 10 am-6 pm; rest of the year, daily 11 am-5 pm. 5 euros adults. Paulus Potterstraat 13, Amsterdam. Phone 573-2911. http://www.stedelijk.nl.

The Holland Experience This multimedia theater with a revolving platform whisks you through a 3-D depiction of the Netherlands and what it's famous for -- windmills, tulips and canals. Also simulates the bursting of a dike and a storm with gale-force winds. Daily 10 am-6 pm (last show starts at 5:30 pm). 8 euros adults. Waterlooplein 17, Amsterdam. Phone 422-2233. http://www.holland-experience.nl.

Theater Instituut Nederland An interesting diversion, not only for the old stage sets and sound-effects machines that visitors are invited to play with, but also for the two 17th-century canal houses in which the museum is located. A pleasant cafe is on the premises. Tuesday-Friday 11 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 1-5 pm. 3.85 euros adults. Herengracht 168, Amsterdam. Phone 551-3300. http://www.tin.nl.

Van Gogh Museum A permanent display of hundreds of the artist's paintings and drawings -- you will know instantly which ones are the masterpieces. Also on display is the famed correspondence between Vincent van Gogh and his younger brother, Theo. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 7 euros adults. Paulus Potterstraat 7, Amsterdam. Phone 570-5252. http://www.vangoghmuseum.nl.

Woonbootmuseum The Houseboat Museum permits tourists to see how people live on the 2,000 boats lining the canals. The Hendrika Maria, from 1914, is typical of the industrial river barges that were rebuilt as dwellings and furnished as homes. There's a slide show and models of other boats. March-October, Wednesday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm; November-February, Friday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm. 2.50 euros adults. On Prinsengracht, opposite No. 296, Amsterdam. Phone 427-0750. http://www.houseboatmuseum.nl.

Recreation: With lakes, canals and rivers covering nearly one-fifth of the Netherlands, water sports are very popular. Swimming is your best bet in Amsterdam. Pool schedules vary to accommodate school groups, senior swims and nude swimming, so it's best to check first. Zuiderbad (phone 671-0287) and De Mirandabad (phone 622-8080) are both good choices. Cycling is not only a popular pastime, it's also a good way to get around the city. You can rent bikes at most train stations or from several private companies. Vondelpark, just west of Leidseplein, is a good spot to cycle and jog. The Amsterdams Bos, a forest planted as a public-works project, is also good for jogging, walking or hiking. Another pleasant bike route is along the Amstel River, going south to Oude Kerk.

Vondelpark A few blocks west of the Rijksmuseum and south of Leidseplein, this bustling park has placid ponds and meandering paths that are popular with joggers. During the 1960s, this was a famous meeting place for hippies from all over the world, and there's still lots of free, youth-oriented entertainment on Saturday afternoons in summer. Just about any nice day brings out plenty of joggers, walkers, musicians, jugglers, Frisbee-throwers, dog-walkers, ice-cream vendors and all sorts of other sun-seeking citizens. There are also a few cafes and refreshment stands inside the park.

Vondelpark

Holland Casino One of Europe's largest, Amsterdam's branch of this chain of casinos gets rather full at night. Identification is required -- the minimum age is 18. Daily 1:30 pm-3 am. Dress is casual. 3.50 euros. In the Lido theater complex (on the water, across from Leidseplein), Amsterdam. Phone 521-1111.

Golf en Conference Centre Amstelborgh A nine-hole course. Open daily from 8 am until dark. Greens fees are 10 euros before 4 pm, 15 euros after 4 pm. Borchlandweg 6, Duivendrecht (a 10-minute walk from Duivendrecht Metro station), Amsterdam. Phone 563-3333. http://www.borchland.nl.

Golf Club de Hoge Dijk Open from dawn until dusk. Greens fees run 20-35 euros Monday-Friday, 24-40 euros Saturday and Sunday. Abcouderstraatweg 46, Amsterdam. Phone 0294-281-241.

Amsterdams Bos A man-made forest planted as a public-works project. It's a popular spot for walking and hiking. From Centraal Station or Leidseplein, take Bus 170 or 171. Or take Bus 63 from Leidseplein, in the direction of Amstelveen. Exit at Nijenrodeweg.

Camping in Amsterdam: Camping is popular here, especially with the teens backpacking through Europe.

Camping Zeeburg This campground with cabins is in Amsterdam, and you can reach it by bus or tram. Amenities include a supermarket, restaurant, bar with terrace, animal farm, and bicycle rentals. A swimming pool is nearby. http://www.xs4all.nl/~camping/

Campsite and Marina Uitdam The campground and boat basin are located on the Markermeer, a lake (reclaimed from the sea) about 15 km or 10 miles from Amsterdam. Accommodations include tent pitches, caravan/camper hook-ups, "hiker cabins," trailers, and chalets with private bath. A supermarket, restaurant, and bar are on the premises.

Het Amsterdamse Bos Kleine Noorddijk 1 (641 68 68 / fax 640 23 78). To the south of the city center is the beautiful Amsterdamse Bos (Forest) Campground, suitable for families. You'll either have to bike into town (hire bikes available) or take a bus which leaves every half hour and takes approximately 30 minutes to city center. Facilities include a bar, a restaurant, a shop. There are some cabins that sleep up to four people for f 60 per night. Rates person €4; tent €2,75; car €2,25.

Gaasper Camping Amsterdam Loosdrechtsedreef 7 (696 73 26 / fax 696 93 69).This family campsite is located in the south-east of the greater Amsterdam area, and is easily reached by public transport (Metro or bus). The campsite is near Gaasperplas, a large artificial lake with facilities for outdoor (watersports) activities. The site has a cafe, a bar, a restaurant and a shop. Rates person €3,25; tent €3,50-€4,25; car €3.

Vliegenbos Meeuwenlaan 138 (636 88 55 / fax 632 27 23).A campsite to the north of Amsterdam not far from the River IJ, ten minutes by bus from Central Station. Vliegenbos has a bar, a restaurant and a shop and also rents cabins which sleep up to four people for €45 a night. Rental bikes are available. Vliegenbos is considered a 'youth campsite', generally a more lively/noisy site.
Rates person €7,25 including tent; car €7,40.

Restaurants: Practically every cuisine in the world can be found in Amsterdam, from sophisticated French fare to the renowned Indonesian rijstaffel. Enjoy an Argentinean steak in a decor that evokes the vast pampas, dine on a pleasure boat cruising the canals, stop at any of the inexpensive Middle Eastern grills that seem to be on every other block, or try one of the small Chinese restaurants lining the Zeedijk and its many cross streets.

At least once you should try a cone of french fries served with mayonnaise, peanut-butter sauce or any of an ever-increasing number of exotic condiments. Try them. They are great late at night! The best french fries are called vlaamse frites (Flemish fries). Other Dutch specialties reflect the locals' close relationship with the sea: smoked eel, for example, and raw or pickled herring (which is usually eaten whole with chopped onions). In winter, locals savor hearty meals of mashed potatoes combined with such vegetables as cabbage, onions and carrots (hutspot) topped with delicious smoked sausage. Another cold-weather favorite is snert (also called erwtensoep), a thick pea soup usually served with sausage. Make a meal of the pannenkoeken, large Dutch pancakes with bacon, cheese, apples or other ingredients mixed into the batter, or poffertjes, tiny pancakes with powdered sugar. Cafes often serve a plate of three fried eggs with ham or cheese, known as an uitsmijter, which the Dutch usually have for lunch (although it makes an excellent breakfast).

The hearty Dutch breakfast consists of a selection of breads, local cheeses, sliced meats, butter and jam. Lunch is usually a light snack, with dinner the main meal, eaten usually between 6 and 8 pm. Most restaurant kitchens close by 10 pm. Reservations are advisable, because restaurants are often small and may be crowded during peak periods.

The Dutch are famous for their gin (jenever) and beer (pils). A popular winter drink is a rich herbal liqueur called beerenburg. Bottled imported wines are expensive, but a carafe of house wine is usually of good quality. The Dutch drink their coffee strong, usually with cream and sugar, but tea is normally drunk weak and without milk.

There are more than a thousand restaurants to choose from in Amsterdam, and a complete list would, and does, fill a whole book, so we can only hope to give you some recommendations here. Not surprisingly, most restaurants are in the city centre, and just walking there you will pass many of high quality. There are particularly many restaurants around the Leidseplein. Some hints:

• It is advisable to reserve; there are a few restaurants that don't take reservations, or where you won't need to, but it is better to be safe than sorry.
• Enquire beforehand if you want to pay with a credit card.
• Unfortunately the habit of offering smoking and non-smoking areas to diners hasn't caught on here yet.
• The Dutch eat early. Some restaurants close earlier than you might expect.

The Dutch typically go out to eat as an activity in itself. Therefore there is no rush to eat and get going. Servers respect this and will often leave you to eat in peace. In particular it would be very rude for a server to bring you the bill without being asked first. You should always ask for your bill when you want it.

All the restaurants mentioned here are in the centre and offer vegetarian dishes. We give the name, address, district, telephone number, closing time where known and typical price, again where known. We mention if they do or do not accept credit cards when known.

Dutch: When the Dutch go out to eat, they don't go to eat Dutch food. Consequently there are very few places that serve Dutch cuisine. Pancakes are a typical Dutch fare, and tasty and filling. See The Pancake Bakery below under Budget. For restaurants that serve the sort of food you might eat in a Dutch home, see De Blauwe Hollander below, also under Budget, and:

Die Port van Cleve, Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 178 (Dam), 21:00, €20, 6240047.

Brasserie De Poort In Hotel Die Port van Cleve, this restaurant is a citadel of traditional Dutch cooking. Best known for such old Dutch specialties as stamppot and zuurkool but offers international dishes as well. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 176-180, Amsterdam. Phone 622-6429.

Dorrius This highly regarded and traditional restaurant located near the Dam specializes in Dutch dishes. It's been open since 1890 and still has its original furnishings. Monday-Saturday for dinner. Reservations required. $$. Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 5, Amsterdam. Phone 671-7959.

Haesje Claes Lady Haesje Claes was born in 1520 into a prosperous merchant family and later became the founder and patron to the nearby Public Orphanage, which now houses the Amsterdam Historical Museum. At this restaurant named for her, you can sup on Dutch specialties while enjoying the traditionally decorated Dutch interior. Daily for lunch and dinner. $. Most major credit cards. Spuistraat 275, Amsterdam. Phone 624-9998.

Sluizer's A popular draw for fish lovers, who may experiment with a continually changing variety of sauces. Popular and informal, with wooden walls and lots of art. Monday-Friday for lunch and dinner, Saturday for dinner only. Reservations necessary on weekends. $-$$. Most major credit cards. Utrechtsestraat 45, Amsterdam. Phone 626-3557.

The Pancake Bakery The best pancakes in town. Large selection of typical Dutch pannenkoeken and other basic dishes. The place is always full, but don't let that stop you -- the wait passes quickly. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $. No credit cards. Princengracht 191, Amsterdam. Phone 625-1333.

Budget Many bars have inexpensive meals until 21:00 for less than €20. See also under cafés below.

De Blauwe Hollander, Leidsekruisstraat 28 (Leidseplein), 6233014, 22:00, €11.

Real Dutch food!

The Pancake Bakery, Prinsengracht 191 (Westerkerk), 6251333, 21:00, €9.

Good atmosphere. Cheap, delicious and filling sweet and savoury pancakes.

Eetcafé Sjaalman, Prinsengracht 178 (Westerkerk), 6202440, 22:00, €9.

Indonesian

Orient, Van Baerlestraat 21 (near museums), 6734958, 21:15, €20.

Rijsttafel (rice table) restaurant; loads of small dishes together.

Kantjil en de Tijger, Spuistraat 291, 6200994, 23:00; €20.

Busy atmosphere. No-nonsense food.

Sarang Mas on Damrak is our favorite! Take many people and sit down to a Rijstafel Feast!

International

Hemelse Modder, Oude Waal 9 (Old Centre), 6243203, 22:00, €18.

Stylish cooking.

Kapitein Zeppos, Gebed Zonder End 5 (Near the Nes), 6242057, 22:00, €15.

The restaurant is off a tiny alley, off a small street off the Rokin. It has a roof that rolls back, so is especially pleasant on warm evenings.

Kort, Amstelveld 12, 626 1199, €15; CC.

The building is part of a charming wooden church on a large square on the Prinsengracht.

De Luwte, Leliegracht 26 (Westerkerk), 625848 (no reservations), 22:00, €15.

Caribbean

Rum Runners, Prinsengracht 277 (Westerkerk), 6274079, 01:00, €18; CC.

Exotic; busy. Drink your cocktail, watch the parrots and turtles.

Chinese

Nam Kee, Zeedijk 111 (Nieuwmarkt), 6392848, 11:30-24:00, €13; No CC

More like a cantine than a restaurant; about as authentic as they come

French

De Belhamel, Brouwersgracht 60 (Beginning of Herengracht), 6221095, €23; CC.

Art-deco ambiance, beautiful view over a main canal.

Gouden Reael, Zandhoek 14, (Prinseneiland), 6233883, €35, CC.

A bit difficult to find but worth it. Follow the Prinsengracht under the railway lines, and keep walking north (along Grote Bikkerstraat) until you cross a wooden bridge. It is on the next corner on the left.

Greek

De Twee Grieken, Prinsenstraat 20 (Westerkerk), 6255317, 23:00; €20; CC.

Informal, and authentic

Italian

Toscanini, Lindengracht 75 (Jordaan), 6232813, €18.

Burgers Patio, Tweede Tuindwarsstraat 12 (Jordaan), 6236854, 24:00, €15, CC

Italian-style cuisine. Tables in a garden and on the street. (They don't serve burgers: it is a surname.)

Mexican

Pacifico, Warmoesstraat 31 (Red-light district), 6242911, 17:30-24:00, €15.

Rose's Cantina, Reguliersdwarsstraat 38 (Flower Market), 6259797, 23:00, €14; CC.

Crowded, good portions. If you know of anywhere in the world that makes better margaritas (on the rocks, not frozen) we'd like to hear about it.

Portuguese

Portugalia, Kerkstraat 35, 6256490, 24:00, €15.

Spanish

Alcantara, Westerstraat 186 (Jordaan), 4203959, 23:00, €15; No CC.

Spacious and light, in an old cinema building. (Spanish, despite its name)

Centra, Lange Niezel 29 (Red-light district), 6223050, 23:00, €10.

Vegetarian

De Bolhoed, Prinsengracht 60 (Jordaan), 6261803, 22:00, €13.

Daily-changing set-price menu.

Vliegende Schotel, Nieuwe Leliestraat 162 (Jordaan), 625 2041, 22:45, €1