By Max McCool
Materials needed:

  • 2 Six Foot pieces of nylon
  • 2 Eight Foot pieces of nylon
  • 2 Sidewall strings
  • 4 leathers
  • Shooting Strings
  • (Pocket Screw is recommended)
WARNING: Ovens, lighters, matches, knives, and other tools called for in this tips section can be dangerous when not properly used. If you intend on trying any of these tips at home, you must tell your parents exactly what your plans are before proceding. Improper use of some of the tools suggested can result in cutting, burning or staining yourself or your family's property. So ask FIRST, and be careful!

String-O-Meter rating: Not hard

This pocket just kind of happened, as I had no plans for this rig from the start. I started stringing it from the inside leathers out, which I think is the easiest way to come up with an original, working pocket. I got to a point where I just had to finish it, and so I stayed up past my bedtime and got it done. When I woke up, I had a two leather prototype of the Club pocket sitting on the couch waiting. After a few trial runs, I'm bringing it to you guys. This pocket is pretty basic, with no difficult knots to master. It takes some simple traditional elements and combines them into a really soft pocket with excellent hold. There are a couple videos, but most of it is pretty self explanatory with the pictures. Grab your spools and let's get started.

Step 1: Inside Leathers

Put in your middle two leathers so that the excess leather can be trimmed off the back. Pull them pretty tight, but leave enough space for nylon to pass through. Tie your two pieces of 6 ft. cross lace to the loop in the leather. Pull the knot tight, then the leather, and adjust the leathers to how deep you want the pocket to be. This done, began going down the middle leathers, back and forth, so that you are making X's. These are plain traditional loops. I put in about 10 X's, but you end up with something like 11 or twelve when you tie it off on the leather. You can change this number so that there are more or less diamonds, but it's probably easiest to do it like I did.

When you get to the bottom, cut two small holes in each leather, about a half inch apart. If notice in the pictures, I use the first holes to hold down the middle, and the lower two holes to tie off 4 nylons at the bottom. REALLY BE CAREFUL cutting the holes in the leather, because if you slice one, you have to start ALL OVER (it's painful). Also, please don't cut your fingers off. If you want to go the safe route, find some cable ties at a hardware store and use those to tie nylons to the leathers. From an X, pull the nylons up through the holes in the leather. Go around the leather and pull the nylons through the loops they make around the leathers. Pull it snugly, and start your way back up the outside of the leather, making tight loops. Go to each stitch you made with the inner X's, and keep them just loose enough to not bunch or put stress on your leathers. When you get to the top, find a way to turn around the nylon. I was lucky to have a hole in the head right there, but if you don't, you can probably loop around your outside leathers.

Windows Media Player 7 or newer is required.

It's now time for the last step of making the middle. Take your nylon and pull it up through every loop you just made on the outside of the leather. If you pull it up from the back on every one, it should look like a twist on the outside of your leather. Get to the bottom, and pull the nylons through one of the lower holes you already made. Don't leave any slack in these twisting strings, but don't pull them tight enough so that they change the depth of your leathers.

Step 2: Outside Leathers

Put in your outer leathers the same way you put in the middle ones. Starting at the top corners of your head, string traditional style all the way down, making 10 trips to the leather and back. Keep these loops around the outer leather even with those on the inner leather. When you get to the bottom, go to a hole in the sidewall and loop back around towards the middle two leathers. Find the twisting string, and go through the loops it makes with the other nylon. This string is the only one you will go around, NOT the nylon that goes around the inner leather. When you come back to the outside leather, skip every other loop. The same goes with the twisting string. Leave alternating spaces on the leather and the twist so that you can come back down with your nylon and complete the X's. Go to the top, go through a hole in the scoop and come back down, mirroring what you did on the way up. Your X's might look a little crooked now, but if you kept them even, and also keep both nylons even taut to the middle, it won't be a problem.

Windows Media Player 7 or newer is required.

Notice all my X's between the inner and outer leather look the same. To do this, just keep in mind to go under the other nylon when you are going TO the twisting nylon, and over the nylon when you are coming back towards the leather. If this doesn't make sense, it's not a big deal, just don't make anything tighter than anything else. When you get to the bottom, you're basically done. Go through the lower hole in the inner leather that already has a nylon coming out of it. Before you tie off the pairs of strings from each leather, tweak the tightness of the twisting string. You can make more of a channel, or you can let the ball roam a bit more, but this is where you can change that.

Step 3: Final Touches

When you're satisfied, throw in your shooters. You've got a new Club Pocket. The more you string this pocket, like all pockets, the more you will realize how important symmetry is. Make sure the left side is just as tight as the right side. It's easiest to do this when you do both sides at the same time, going back and forth to make sure stuff stays similar. This pocket can be pretty easy when you get the hang of it, so have fun. Keep an eye out for my latest dye job, a 7 color dip with a reverse splatter on the outside. I posted some sample pictures below. Look for my new Dyeing For Beginners DVD at E-Lacrosse along with the beginners' stringing DVD. The trailer for Dye Jobs is below. Check it out!


Windows Media Player 7 or newer is required.

Each pocket design found in the Stick Tech Workshop will be assigned a String-O-Meter rating. This is just a relative measure of how difficult it is to string the sticks.

EASY - This refers mainly to mesh pockets and those for the novice and first time stringer.
MEDIUM - This refers to sticks such as the six and eight diamond stringing. The designs aren't too tough, but require some concentration and time.
DIFFICULT - This refers to sticks like THE "Dog Track". These sticks are usually variations from the basic traditional pocket.
ADVANCED - This refers to sticks that take more time and careful attention to string properly. Overall stringing capability and ability to tie more complicated knots are usually needed to string a pocket reading 4 on the String-O-Meter.


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