We picked ten reader tips for publication this month! And we're giving the authors E-Lacrosse logo hats!
WARNING: Ovens, lighters, matches, knives, and other tools called for in this tips section can be dangerous when not properly used. If you intend on trying any of these tips at home, you must tell your parents exactly what your plans are before proceding. Improper use of some of the tools suggested can result in cutting, burning or staining yourself or your family's property. So ask FIRST, and be careful!
THE TOP TIPS (in no particular order)
Jason Hobson, New Jersey
I found a good way to make a seal on dye jobs work. Usa a combination of tape and a glue gun. After placing the tape,seal the ends of the tape with the glue gun, But not all dye jobs are perfect, this might help a little bit.
For all you players using traditional pockets, there is a better nylon
you can use for the weave. Based on what Buffalo Bandits' goalie Marty
O' Neill told me, parachute cord is more durability than conventional
nylon used in plastic sticks.
I found that traditional pockets with parachute cord results in more consistent pockets. This results in reducing spin on the ball when receive passes, picking off passes, and, for box goalies, ease of controlling rebounds and stopping shots.
As for ball control, these pockets are fairly time consuming to break in (about a few days to a week), but in the long run will be better suited to throwing more accurate passes.
In response to the question about the sidewall strings not fitting
through the holes, I have had the same problem with many of the sticks
that I have strung. Sidewall strings are made up of tiny strings inside of a big tube like string. Cut the end of the sidewall string and pull down the outer tube about 2 inches. The tiny strings will be sticking out. Cut off about 2 inches of the tiny strings. Slide the outer tube back up so the string is taught again and then slide it through the hole. Removing the small strings makes the end of the sidewall string a lot thinner.
Erik Johnson, Bloomington, Minnesota
I found a new way to put my shooting strings in the Revolving Doerr
pocket. Instead of all nylon shooters, I put two hockey laces at the bottom, close together, then two traditional nylon laces about a half inch above the laces, also very close together. Followed by the last nylon shooter at the very top. The combo of these shootong strings eliminates any unwanted catching on the bottom shooters, but still keeps the amazing whip and power the Doerr Pocket gives its faithful users. The Doerr, in my mind remains the best kept secret of a traditonal pocket out there.
If you keep on having trouble tying knots when you string your own
stick, help is finally here. After tying a regular knot, just get a lighter and burn the knot. This will melt the string together and will never come undone. Make sure you are doing this after you perfected your pocket's position because you cant undo the knot.
I have been stringing the corner pocket for a few years
now and I have a few suggestions to help anybody who is trying to string one. ( For all of you who don't know, the corner pocket is when the sides of the pocket are traditional with a mesh interior.)
Use either a hard mesh piece or some sort of durable mesh. Soft mesh
seems to bag too much and the result is a horrible whip.
When stringing the nylons from the sidewalls to the leather/mesh,
string it only around the leather and not the mesh. This allows the mesh or the leathers to move and not effect eachother.
Leave the leathers slightly loose instead of tightening them
entirely. When you tighten them entirely, it doesn't channel the ball or control it much more than a regular mesh. But when you loosen them
slightly they close around the ball when it is placed in the pocket.
Use nylons on the scoop instead of
Nick Azpiroz, Oakland, California
I don't know if this idea is already popular or not because it seems like us on the west coast are way behind you on the east coast. Any way here's my idea, For your top shooting string you should use three pieces of string.
The first put on is nylon, put it in like a regular shooting string.
Then add another nylon on top. On top of that put a hockey lace. This reduces whip but also allows for a large pocket like a stick that has whip.
NOTE: I don't know much about cooking stuff but you can save yourself about ten minutes of scrubbing if you use a nonstick surface.
Before you go destroying you brand new $60 head. Test out the tape, glue, sticker, dye color, or new dyeing tecnique on a $1.50 white ball. They are more absorbent so they take about 5 min to dye.
Instead of putting a massive amout of tape on your butt end to keep your hand or the cap from slide in off the stick. Get one of those new warrior rubber but caps that slide off all the time and last about a game until the shaft "cookie cuts" the the bottom off. Then get one of the old butt caps poke a small hole in the top, cover it with non aerosol hairspray, and then slide the rubber warrior butt cap over it. Put hairspray inside the double butt cap and put it on the shaft. When it dries you have a fat butt cap that doesn't fall off.
Dying mesh with cold dye works better on mesh than hot. Here are some tips that are not as good when adjusting shooting strings allow the ball to ever so slightly hit the scoop of the stick that way you know you got your shot/pass off, and when putting in the top leather just spiral it so if the ball comes off the plastic it will act as a last shooting string.
When putting the electric tape on the stick use tweezers because they
will not take off as much stickiness from the tape as your fingers
would. I did it with my stick and it worked great. but I also had very small "confetti" pieces on my stick and I hardly any errors (and it was my first time). also when you use tweezers you don't have to heat up the tape. note that I have only done this with electrical tape NOT duct tape. I just thought that might be helpful in answering some of your questions.
If you have trouble with your knots coming undone, put a little bit of hot glue on the string or leather. Put the hot glue on before you tie the not. Don't put too much, just a little dab. This will prevent the knots from coming undone, but you will be able to untie them if you wish. To untie them, take something pointy like a pencil or crochet needle and slip it through the not, then pull.
To keep your head clean use a small piece of sand paper. Find the
finest sand paper you can, and slightly rub the head do get the dirt or mud off. Be careful, and sand very gently. THIS COULD SCRATCH AND RUIN A DYED HEAD.
Thanks to all for participating. Keep sending your tips and we'll pick another ten in a few months! Send them to firstname.lastname@example.org!