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Stick Tech Workshop - ReADeR TIPS!

December 17, 2002
For a second time in 2002 we have a tie in a dye contest! The two winners are awesome dyes with high degrees of difficulty and innovation. Our winners are Marty Bindel of Baltimore and K.J. Landgraf from Cordova, MD. Marty was a second place finisher last year and also won the Inside Lacrosse 2002 Dye Contest. He and his father work together (encouraged - we know dads are no more coordinated than kids) on the dyes and they are pretty spectacular. The second place winners are pretty impressive on their own and might have broken into the winners circle if not for our two amazing winning dyes. Two of the second place winners, Peter Boone and Zach Uhler, got first place votes, but not enough to topple the winners. Over forty other submissions were great dyes and terrific efforts, but we have to cut off the field somewhere. Keep up the great work! We expect to see many of you back with contenders in the future!

The Process: First we waited until the 1st to go to the Post Office Box to be sure that no mail-in entries came in last minute. We spread out all entrants with color printouts and write ups stapled to the back (about 50 complete entries this time) and we narrowed it down to 7 and then voted for our favorites using a points system. We had a 2 way tie. Second place was harder to pick, so as usual we gave it to everyone in the serious running.

So, "Faded Glory" and "Gift to Gary" were crowned the 2002 (part II) E-Lacrosse Dye Champions. Our TWO winners will each receive a three STX heads of their choice to dye with! The second place guys will get an E-Lacrosse Rage 2 Video Tape! Congratulations to all!

WINNING DYE #1: Faded Glory by K.J. Landgraf

I call this dye job "faded glory" due to the procedure used to make it. The colors I used are my team colors. Although the pictures I took of the head in its undyed but prepared state didn't develop well, I hope that the final result is good enough.

To begin this dye, I simply put hot glue in spots where I wanted white to show through, the standard two color splatter. I then dyed the entire head yellow. After rinsing off excess dye, I applied more hot glue. These were where I wanted yellow to show through. Now, with glue cover both white and yellow spots, I dyed the scoop and throat green to give a green-yellow-green fade effect.

This is where it got a little tricky. Instead of peeling off the glue as you would and standard three color splatter design, I added glue. This meant that I now had glue cover white, yellow, and green spots. I then soaked the entire head in RIT color remover. This caused the exposed plastic's color to fade, but left the color under the glue. Then I simply peeled of all the glue. The dark splatter in the faded color is a design I have never seen before, but comes up with sick results. - K.J.

WINNING DYE #2: Gift for Gary by Marty Bindel

My son and I wanted to make a stick for Gary Gait but couldn't decide which great team to choose for a dye job, so we posted a question on the internet and found out which teams that he had played on and won championships. We received the following list:
1987 to 1990: 3 NCAA Championships (really 4)-Syracuse Orangemen

1990: MILL (NLL) North American Cup-Detroit Turbos

1990: OLA-Mann Cup-Brooklin Redmen

1994 to 1995: MILL (NLL) North American Cup-Philadelphia Wings

1997 & 1999 : WLA-Mann Cup-Victoria Shamrocks

2000: NCLL Championship-Team Toyota

2001: MLL Championship-Long Island Lizards

2002: MLL Championship-Baltimore Bayhawks

We decided to make a head that had the team logos for all those teams. We searched the Internet to locate logos that we could use as the basis for the decals we cut. The two most difficult logos to find were the Detroit Turbos and the Brooklin Redmen. We received help from both the Logoserver (www.logoserver.com) and the Sports Logo Encyclopedia (www.sle.com) sites. Someone from Logoserver helped us with the Turbos logo and I noticed that the logo for the Brooklin Redmen was a slightly altered Chicago Blackhawks (NHL) logo so we used that and modified it to reflect the Redmen's color scheme.

We chose an STX head because Gary works for them and the Vector specifically because it had the most available head space around the scoop and upper side rails for the number of logos we were using.

We cut the vinyl logos to the proper size (a lot of trial and error) and then began the dye. The most difficult was the Brooklin Redmen. We cut a "stencil" to dye only the red (RIT Scarlet) parts of the logo and masked the rest of the head. Through trial and error we learned that the best way to mask the rest of the head was to use pieces of vinyl (heated with a blow dryer) with hot glue at all of the seams. We then moved on to the RIT black dye. We created "masks" for the Philadelphia Wings, Detroit Turbos, and the black portion of the Redmen logo (hair, face paint, eye and outline).

We carefully lined up the Redmen mask to make sure we had it positioned properly relative to the red items (feathers and holder, face paint, and earring). We then repeated the mask/hot glued seam treatment for the rest of the head and dyed the black. We repeated the same steps with the Victoria Shamrocks (Dark Green), Long Island Lizards (Kelly Green), Baltimore Bayhawks (supposed to be Navy Blue; don't know why it is so dark), and the Syracuse Orangemen (Sunshine Orange). The last dye that we did was Scarlet Red again. We wanted the feathers to be a darker red so we created a mask that was open for the feathers online and used an outline decal of the Redmen head to retain the thin band of white just inside the all red border. At this point, we also created masks for the Team Toyota logo and the Canadian MapleLeaf with Gary's trademark #22.

We dyed the sidewall and center pocket nylon Scarlet and then strung the pocket with a Crisscross pocket.

We hope to give the stick to Gary sometime. - The Bindel's

THE RUNNERS-UP (2nd Place) will be sent Rage II tapes!

First I took pipe cleaners and threaded them through the string holes in the unstrung head and tightened them to bring the stick to the legal limit of neck width. Then boiled the head for 1/2 hour then put into the freezer for 1/2 hour to pinch for faceoffs.

Then I dyed the head yellow, glue gunned it and dyed it blue which made a greenish yellow camo head. Then strung with thick yellow monster mesh that helps to hold the ball during faceoffs. Now all my friends want me to help them do their sticks. - Peter

We started with an old MIL Mission Extreme head, a popular head up here in Alberta, Canada. We followed most of your suggestions shown in your "how-to pages" & 2001 & 02 contests pics. We first used rubber cement and hot glue but the yellow dye went right threw the rubber cement. Next we re hot glued the head and did the red, orange, yellow fade part. It took all day, a finger nail and a tooth to remove the hot glue from the fade job (not easy).

For the blue dye we used the rubber cement as a "releasing agent", a thin coat of rubber cement on the whole head except the lightning bolt along the side. Then we used hot glue over top of the rubber cement. We did the fade for the concentrated blue dye and rinsed it off. We peeled off the glue in long strips in about 2 minutes (way easy with rubber cement under the hot glue). A coat of liquid floor wax was applied to shine it up when we were all done. It was fun for me and my dad. - Kyle

My design is called the tiger. I dyed an STX quark and used 4 colors for this head. A yellow color, sunshine orange with a dash of yellow (which made a lighter orange), and sunshine orange with a little bit of black (that made a darker orange). I just used RIT dye. The supplies you need are a glue gun and some tape (any kind). That's pretty much it. I started out having to boil water which you'll have to do for every color you do. I put in about 2/3 of a cup of yellow RIT dye. Then I just threw the head in to make it yellow. After I had the rite color and it was dry I got some scotch tape and I just wrapped around the bottom and top of the cavity on both sides. After that I got the glue gun and I just put glue in between the line which I call the "tiger stripes". One of the hardest details was the tiger paw. I made the tiger paw yellow. I did this bye making 1 circle about a half of inch around of scotch tape. Then I made four more circles even smaller that the half inch one. Then I organized them to look like a tiger paw. Then I got a new pot of boiling water and emptied the pot with yellow in it.

While the water was boiling I put the head into the water to make the glue and tape to the stick. I kept it in there for 10 seconds. Now I had to go get the sunshine orange and the yellow dye. I put just enough orange then I put some yellow to make it a lighter orange. After I put the stick in the dye and the color was right got out the scotch tape and the glue gun. I first started out doing the last paws right above the throat. I did the exact thing I did with the first paw but there will only be 3 tiny circles.

After I did that I put hot glue in between the tiger stripes. I was done with that color so I put the head in boiling water. Then I got out the black and kept out the orange.

I started out putting a lot of orange dye then I put a little black to make it a darker orange. This was the tricky part putting on the lines on the scope. I started out cutting out a whole bunch of those stripes then I arranged them to look like a tigers actual stripes.

I put more glue from the hot glue gun in between the "tiger stripes" where I put all the other glue on. Then I got more boiling water and put the head in it. This the end and main color black that I will dye. I put a whole bunch of black in the pan and left the head in there for an hour so I could get the rite shade of black. Then I just took everything off the head and basked in its glory. - Zach

I started with my phantom (not brand new) and washed off all the dirt and stuff. Then I got a dark blue mixture of dye and dipped the head up to about half way. I used RIT because it works the best. So I pulled the head out and washed and dried it. Then I mixed up a dark red dye solution and dyed the other half of the head dark red. Once again I took the head out and washed it.

Then I did the splatter pattern with hot glue. I used a ton of hot glue, 2 or 3 sticks. After that I dyed the whole head black. Then I peeled off the hot glue and there you have it - blue on top, red on bottom with black stripes all over. - Chandler

The head I dyed was a Shamrock Assassin. To begin, I cut out the letters "NO FEAR" from electrical tape with a utility knife. Then I used the glue gun technique as described on your website to make squiggly lines all over the head. I then dyed the head Scarlet Red with Rit dye. After the red dyed dried, I used the glue gun technique again to put squiggly lines over the red dye. Then using Black Rit dye, I dyed it black. The finished head is black with red and white squiggly lines and NO FEAR on the lip. I called the dye job "NO FEAR Fury".


2000-2001 Winner    /     1999-2000 Winner    /     2001-2002 Winner

Thanks everyone for all your submissions! Keep dyeing and documenting the steps with photos. We'll just kick off the next contest right now! E-Lacrosse will come up with some awards to offer. On September 15 (originally June 15), 2003 we will choose the very best dye job submitted and showcase the stick and it's designer right here on E-Lacrosse in July! Entries should include:
  1. picture(s) of the head in its pre-dyed but prepared state (with stickers, glue or whatever)
  2. picture(s) of the completed head for judging
  3. description text of how you did it, your concept and what you call the dye job.
Send your entries to john@tonabricks.com

The contest is for individual stringers and not for Lacrosse stores and kids who just buy a head at a store already dyed. Parents may participate with their kids. We know kids are better at this anyway. Start now. Be careful. Send as many entries as you like. GOOD LUCK TO ALL!

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